69 F100
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69 F100
Hello all. I have cut out most of the bed in my truck because it was rusted through. It was fairly easy with jigsaw but....the bed is also spot welded to the cross members which are bolted to the frame. So I have 5-6 cross member with the old steel still attached to it. 3-4" every few feet. Any ideas how to remove? The cross members are fine but just need to remove the remaining pieces of the bed from the top of them. I have tried every type of saw and blade with no luck. I don't have a torch or a plasma cutter. Is a torch the only answer? If so, what type? Thanks!!!
- jimmy828
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Re: 69 F100
They have spot welds about every 2 inches on each brace
which adds up to a trillion of them. I took all the ribbed section out of mine and after drilling all those spot welds it took about 2 hours. My bed was off so i stood it up on it's end with a wooden brace to keep it from tilting so i could work from bottom side. What a job it was!!!

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Re: 69 F100
Man, I didn't even think to try that. You use a 1/2" bit or something close? I probably should buy several given the amount of holes to be drilled. Awesome! Thanks a bunch! 

- flyboy2610
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Re: 69 F100
You need a spot weld cutter. (And a good drill!)
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-skip-proof-s ... r-kit.html
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-skip-proof-s ... r-kit.html
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
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Red Green
If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
you'd better be right.
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- chad67
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Re: 69 F100
I bought a spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight for $6. It works well, but I haven't used it enough to testify to its durability.
1967 F100 SWB
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
- sargentrs
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Re: 69 F100
Here's a visual of what you're facing. Page 21 (Great job, Tyler!) http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &start=300
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: 69 F100
chad67 wrote:I bought a spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight for $6. It works well, but I haven't used it enough to testify to its durability.
You can get about 100 spot welds with these if you drill a small pilot dimple and use lubricant like WD 40.
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Re: 69 F100
I removed rusty old floor from so
e cab mounts i wanted to save. I used a cold chisel. And then a grinder. Worked perfect.
e cab mounts i wanted to save. I used a cold chisel. And then a grinder. Worked perfect.