I had some rust holes in the very bottom corners of my doors that were getting nasty so I was going to use some of my POR15 stash on them. I prepared everything on par with the directions and I took a very small hobbyist painters brush ( to not paint on anything but the holes in the door and keep it neat) and accidentally painted Chassis Coat Black top coat over the rust. I had just finished when I realized the can said Chassis Coat and not Rust Preventative paint . I spoke with customer service and asked if the top coat would stop the rust too and I could continue on my business. They said that the top coat does not stop the rust and the area will continue to rust. I was also going to use the dreaded Bondo after painting the holes to make it atleast look alright ( I'm broke right now so thats the best I can do ). Then I was going to touch up the paint where I repaired the doors to help the area blend in. How can I remove the POR15 with wrecking the rest of my door paint and without destroying any metal? I would add pictures but my computer screen is cracked now. Thanks in advance
-Jordan
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Only way I know of to get that off is to sand it or wire wheel it off.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
This is a stupid question and is probably easily answered but do they make a very tiny ( 1/4 in or less) wire brush? Dremel kit or something? Some is also inside the door holes too, actually most is.
Thanks for the help yall
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
If you have the patience and time, a Dremel/rotary tool with sanding drum attachments will get it off and down to the metal again, only in the area you want to take off.
That's exactly what I'm trying to do- remove the least amount of good paint as possible. I don't have a dremel though but I'm sure my old Craftsman drill could do the trick with the attachment if I'm careful. I don't know where to find Boxwood Green paint yet so I try to remove the least amount possible until I can locate a place that will make some.
This was one of those "I wish I could go back 5 min and look at everything again" mistakes . Oh well as long as everything turns out good, its another lesson learned. Guarantee you I won't ever grab the wrong paint again...
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
I've decided a Dremel Tool or an off brand craftsman one would help out a lot with fixing other areas on the truck so I'm planning to pick one up tomorrow. There are the name brand Dremel Tools and Craftsman ones out there I've found. I think im going to go with the Dremel 3000 that comes with 30 something attachments for it. Its $10 more than the Craftsman clone but I figure I will have that tool for years of use. I wasn't really planning to buy any tools for awhile and I could just use my 1/2 horse power drill but I think its a little overbearing for such a meticulous kind of job.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Subzero wrote:I've decided a Dremel Tool or an off brand craftsman one would help out a lot with fixing other areas on the truck so I'm planning to pick one up tomorrow. There are the name brand Dremel Tools and Craftsman ones out there I've found. I think im going to go with the Dremel 3000 that comes with 30 something attachments for it. Its $10 more than the Craftsman clone but I figure I will have that tool for years of use. I wasn't really planning to buy any tools for awhile and I could just use my 1/2 horse power drill but I think its a little overbearing for such a meticulous kind of job.
If you get the Dremel with all the attachments, you cannot go wrong. You will use that tool for more things than you ever imagined and you will definitely get your money's worth out of it.
Just picked it up from Lowe's for $75 bucks. Already thought of lots of other things I can do now with it. It comes with what looks to be 15-20 attachments for it. I'm sure I'll be buying more later on. Once this darn storm passes I might be able to get some work done on the truck which includes redoing the drip rail caulk and fixing all my Bondo work along with removing the POR15. Its been raining for 5 days straight now and still a few more to come probably. I don't drive the old truck in the rain, I try to keep it as nice and dry at all times safe under a waterproof truck cover.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Should have used Master Series silver. Not problems with adhesion as POR has. It is a primer, you wouldn't get mixed up as what to apply. Do a search on it, no one should be using POR directly on metal IMO.
Its too late to look at other products now for me, i have a shelf full of $350 worth of POR15 and a little Eastwood paint that I've already bought early last month.Buying enough of another product to do what I need is not really possible at this point so I have to make do with what I have and hope for the best. Im tight on money with the truck and every expense that I can avoid helps. Others say POR15 works and some dont, I've had good results with it so far. Eventually I will probably get a Master Series quart of silver and give it a try to paint the back of my bumpers. If I had lots of money ( and a covered work area) I'd probably do a real frame off resto and sandblast the frame then expoxy paint. Right now I'm just trying to fix everything I possibly can that will help the truck last for years to come , look better, and allow me to keep driving the truck.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
I understand what you are saying, at the same time you don't want a problem down the road. That is worse. I've been doing restoration work for over 30 years. I wouldn't use POR on something unless it was a topcoat, never DTM. Consider you options next time. I would still use an undercoat below the POR, and that would be MasterSeries silver. Then use your POR on top.
That's a good point, I try to do the best I can though. The truck has a lot of sentimental value and I definitely wouldn't want to make something worse than it normally would be. I have a few months before I'm painting the rear part of the frame so I can do even more research. Things keep getting a little bit better every month with it and I just take one thing at a time.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
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My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
I ended up getting some paint yesterday from Sherwin Williams Automotive paints. The code for boxwood green is "P". The paint I got is called 3rd Dimension and looks very close when I brushed it on.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
. I spoke with customer service and asked if the top coat would stop the rust too and I could continue on my business. They said that the top coat does not stop the rust and the area will continue to rust. I was also going to use the dreaded Bondo after painting the holes to make it atleast look alright ( I'm broke right now so thats the best I can do 
). Then I was going to touch up the paint where I repaired the doors to help the area blend in. How can I remove the POR15 with wrecking the rest of my door paint and without destroying any metal? I would add pictures but my computer screen is cracked now. Thanks in advance
