FORD Factory Hubs

[Doug F]

Wondering if anyone knows about Ford's locking hubs on (at least) 67 F-100s. I'd like to rebuild them and hope someone knows of a rebuild kit.

Thanks!

[fordman]

i am 46 now. back when i was 17 i took apart a 4wd drive hub. and it was full of spacer locking rings washers and two bearings. that was in high school. we replaced the bearigns and reused everything else i think. and had it out of there in 2 days because we had to wait on parts.

[FORDification]

I've got a 12-page Spicer service manual that I've been meaning to scan and post, which should be helpful. I'll get it scanned sometime this weekend.

[Montana71-F100]

I took mine apart on my 1971 f100. It wasn't fun since I had no idea how things are held in place. A mechanic finally had to show me how to remove a snap ring that I didn't know was there and loaned me a special tool to remove a nut. After using his tool, I made one for myself out of a piece of pipe to use on the other side.

Since then, I bought the shop manual for my '71. It was a very good investment. I'd recommend looking for one for your '67. Try a Google search and an E-bay search for "1967 Ford Truck Shop Manual".

I have good luck on replacement parts for my '71 at any parts store. I'm guessing you should be able to find parts for your '67 too.

Good Luck

[miner3do]

i have the full shop manual for 67 all three books i can look up 4x4 hubs

ok i found this if it helps

[FORDification]

Those same exploded-view schematics are available here on the site at this link:

Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section A

[Doug F]

Thanks everyone! My funds are limited these days and I have a month to get it inspected so I can register it. With the wiring problems, I am torn to get a new harness or service manual! UGH!

[FORDification]

OK, I got the service manual scanned and posted. I was thinking it was an earlier version, but this is an '85 manual. Don't know how much of it is applicable to our trucks, since I'm not a 4WD expert, but here it is FWIW:

1985 Spicer Service Manual - Manual Hub Lok

[Montana71-F100]

Thanks everyone! My funds are limited these days and I have a month to get it inspected so I can register it. With the wiring problems, I am torn to get a new harness or service manual! UGH!

Money talks. (Or the lack of it.) Get the new harness and use free information when you can get it. The information in the other posts should give you what you need for the hubs. The diagrams mentioned are very similar to my 71. The text from my manual is below.

My purpose for removing the hub was to pack the wheel bearings. Other than that it didn't look like much could wear except the O ring. If your wheels are tight, you may be able to wait on this until after your inspection. Your wheel bearings should be inspected and packed.

I didn't see the nut in the drawings that needed the special wrench. It must be right against the wheel bearing. If I remember right, you need a wrench that is a circle with 4 knobs. I made the wrench by grinding the end of a pipe, leaving the 4 pieces sticking up. I think the pipe was 2" O.D. but check the amount of room in your hub. I welded a bar on the other end and a bolt so I could use a torque wrench. If you don't have a welder you could use a pipe wrench. You should follow directions and use a torque wrench but the torque specifications didn't work for me. When I backed it off as directed, the wheel was too loose. I ended up tightening it until the wheel spun but with some resistance then I backed it off until it spun freely but didn't feel loose.

I wish I had known about this forum when I was working on a lot of aspects of my truck!

4-Wheel Drive
Vehicles

1. Raise the vehicle and install
safety stands.
2. Back off the brake adjusting
screw, if necessary. Remove the wheel
cover, if installed.
3. Remove the front hub grease
cap. Remove the driving hub retaining
snap ring and slide the splined driving
hub from between the axle shaft and
the wheel hub (Fig. 4). Remove the
driving hub spacer. (If equipped with
free-running lock-out hubs, refer to
Front Wheel Drive Lock-Out Hub
Removal in 1971 Truck Shop Manual,
Group 15.

4. With Tool T59T-1197-B, remove
the lock nut and lock ring from the
spindle.
5. Using Tool T59T-1197-B and a
torque wrench, tighten the bearing
adjusting nut (Fig. 4) to 50 ft-Ib, while
rotating the wheel back and forth to
seat the bearings.
6. Continue rotating the wheel and
then loosen and re-torque the ad-
justing nut to 30-40 ft-Ib,
7. Back the adjusting nut off
approximately 112 turn (135-150
degrees). Assemble the lock ring by
turning the nut to the nearest hole
where the dowel pin will enter.
S. Install the outer lock nut and
torque to 50 ft-lb, Final end-play of
the wheel on the spindle should be
0.001 to 0.010 inch.
9. Install the driving hub, spacer,
snap ring and hub grease cap. Apply a
thin coat of non-hardening sealer to
the seating edge of the grease cap,
before installation. (If equipped with
free-running lock-out hubs, refer to
Front Wheel Drive Lock-Out Hub
Installation in the 1971 Truck Shop
Manual, Group is.
10. Adjust the brake, if backed off
to permit drum removal

[Wes]

these hubs are very easy to service. The only "seals" you may need will be o-rings, other then the rear wheel bearing seal which is common to 2 by's as well. The special tool mentioned in Montana71-F100's post is just a 4x4 hub nut socket. You will need this socket to properly adjust the pre-load on your bearings.OTC, Snap-on, Mac, Wright, Proto, all make these sockets. There are approx 3 different sockets that will do most 4x4's. You don't need the socket to service your locking mechanism. Normally only needs cleaning and grease. The locking hub can be serviced on the ground, thou raising the tire off the ground makes this job easier. Disassemble 1 hub carefully checking which is where and compare to the diagram here. Inspect the o-rings, they should be soft and smooth no cuts or cracks. The metal pieces should also be smooth, the locking splines ideally are machine smooth and bright, if there is some rust it may be ok to reuse. All the spline parts need to slide in and out w/o sticking and binding.

If hard parts are damaged or to rusted, the whole locking assembly is available from Warm and Mile Marker are 2 of the most common aftermarket hubs for under $100.00
As long as your wheeling bearings are in good shape I doubt your locking hubs will be a problem in your inspection, fix your wiring 1st
Good luck and fell free to ask for help here cuase

[Doug F]

Thanks so much everyone... Your input is greatly appreciated and is helping me get through this until I get the manuals.

I am not servicing the hubs yet, I am just working 3-4 projects ahead in my head so I can plan what I need to save for. Wiring is my weakness, so I am a bit overwhelmed with tracking down the problems that are keeping me off the road. The inspection is just for emissions, but I need to drive there to get them done.