inner fenders hung, and radiator support just sitting there.
front wheels off, on jackstands waiting for the brakes to arrive.
just a cool picture I thought.
gonzalo medina wrote:I wouldn't waste my time painting the headers. The paint will probably just smoke off when the engine gets started.
Sand Blast them...then...5 light coats of VHT Very High Temp (1500) will smoke for a bit, but that is the paint "curring". I have done this on the last 2 engines. VERY happy with how it turned out.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires 1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
I painted my headers with header paint from PAW and they still look great, you may need to sand them by hand or use a wire wheel like I did...just remember to use a face shield when using a wire wheel.
I cant remember the name of the place but the sell black and silver paints that don't burn off. I have the silver and it looks just like jet hot. Just can't remember the name of the place. Some help I am. They sell stuff like POR 15 and other things. Anybody know who im talking about?
In all honesty, this probably (hopefully) isnt the motor that stays in it, or atleast the accessories and all. either way, I plan to have quite a few things done tonite.
Tony B.
DFW Area "Someday...
I hope you to get the chance,
to live like you are dying" Member#'s 236 & 403
Úlf the Comedy Sidekick
'69 F-100 "Stepper"(currently in a bigillion pieces ) wt's ride thebucket
spark plugs and plug wires will be bought tomorrow. exhaust manifold bolts as well. using the stock valve covers and air filter housing for now. front brakes come in tomorrow. hopefully its all "together" this weekend. brakes should all be done this weekend, so we can test them. hopefully i can find a way to hang the exhaust back up, after that, its really wiring and getting it cranked. hopefully the wiring is taken care of this weekend as well.
Where are the fuel filters on these trucks? I want to say mine didn't have one? If so, where are they? I figured it would be right before the pump, but it wasn't there when I took it apart.
I still need a straight answer on if I can tell the resistance of my coil somehow, with a multimeter or something. I need to know if I have to have a ballast resistor or not. I want to say its a stock coil, but who am I to say.
well, looks like the 2 weeks isn't enough. I have come to a point where the funds are not near what I need. I still need to do the brakes, tranny oil, gear oil, linkages, and fire the motor off with no glitches. Along side of course the necessities like anti freeze and the final touches to make it safe.
So, that being said, it will not be on the coast for the truck show sadly, im super pissed about that but I guess it is what it is. I can't do much about it honestly. I have tried getting job after job and seems like noone is looking for help, or I don't know what else. Just can't get a job. Therefore, the truck is more or less on hold again once the brakes are done until I can afford it.
hopefully the brakes are done tomorrow, they should be anyways. Should be able to get the valve covers and air cleaner back on too. I don't see why the wire harness can't be done tomorrow, or tonite for that matter.
I honestly thing I can get it done if I can get my calc homework done early in the day. I just hope all goes smoothly from now on. The exhaust will be my biggest pain after the brakes.
Your coil wire from ignition switch should be a resister wire, it should be about 10 volts with key on( mine is anyway) i'm guessing yours should be the same.
I would turn key to run position and start checking voltage at the loose ends in the engine bay.
Or you could get a pertronix kit with flamethrower coil and run 12 volts.