'72 F250 CV, 4.6, T-45, LSD rear end build. "Me too"

[focusinprogress]

Yes, another CV front suspension swap and 4.6 build.

Haven't had much time since I got the truck almost a year ago back in nov. '14

In Feb I pulled/sold the 390/C6 auto for $600.



I shortly thereafter found a guy parting out a '98 mustang GT and bought the engine, trans, ecu, wiring harness, manual pedal box, brake master/booster, steering column, and driveshaft for $800.



A little while later I found someone parting out a 2006 mercury grand marquis and I offered $125 if I came and removed the front suspension myself. Guy gladly accepted and even let me remove it in his heated garage.



Then when it was nicer out in spring I found an eddie bauer edition explorer in the junkyard with the limited slip disc brake rear end and got that for $100 complete.



I stashed all this for about 6 months before finally making time and space for the truck in the shop to get the project underway.

also ordered a TON of parts to refresh the whole setup from RockAuto

About a week ago I yanked out the original 8-lug camper special front suspension and made the crossmember go away. (willing to sell very cheap if anyone needs/wants it)









Once I got to that point I marked and started drilling 1"Dia holes to sleeve the frame for the bolts that go from the bottom of the aluminum crossmember through the frame to the top cast mount.











Made up the plates for the trailing arm mounts but was getting late and had some pondering to do on how to mount them. On the CV they're mounted at like a 45* angle or so and I think it's best to mimick that.

Made up a set of these for mounting the trailing arm bushings to the frame:








Welded in







Then I chucked up some steel bar in the lathe to make the top mounts for the crossmember play nicer with the brackets












feeling much better about the mounting surfaces now.

all that's left is to drill some holes to bolt in the swaybar mounts, then I gotta order up the floorpans and pull the bed off to swap the rear end to the explorer axle.

[IN2FORD]

Excellent work!!

Barry

[diznasty]

You didnt happen to be selling your 8.8 on craigslist last week did you?

[devindastrup]

Very cool! My truck was a F250 as well but I cut it down to a short bed. To my knowledge the frames are the same. Only difference was the springs, Axle, I beams ECT… I like how you did your sleeves much more then the way I did mine.

Devin

[focusinprogress]

You didnt happen to be selling your 8.8 on craigslist last week did you?

I did sell my 8.8 a while back on CL buffalo. I forgot to keep this updated. I have the truck driving and on the road/inspected. I'll follow up with a major update in a bit here.

[focusinprogress]

apologies for leaving you guys in the dark while I continued forward with the build. drove the truck home from the shop sunday evening, got it inspected monday after work. Learned the lesson of double checking my lights are off when I came out to a dead battery yesterday. It's a blast to drive, but the clutch is not at all forgiving on the T-45. Basically have to do a heavy rev, dump it, and chase it so it doesn't stall. haha.

I'll copy over all my posts from my local auto forum where I logged the build more up-to-date. from this point forward any talk of a specific day time is now past.....if I have additional comments in retrospect, they'll be between { } tags.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Got ambitious last night with help from Mahoneybags and Checko. Hung the rack from the ceiling, got the bed off, yanked the stock rear end, and got the explorer rear end in. Can even use stock sized shocks! {later discovered explorer rear is far too narrow, and removed it to sell on CL}









over the weekend I hoisted up the cab using some creative jack-work and did some measuring for the rear leaf springs. I'm unhappy with ride height at the moment and spending some time figuring out how to get it where I want.

Stock rear axle mounted beneath the leaf springs.

The explorer axle is mounted above the axle stock.

If I mount the explorer axle above the leaf, the truck is about 4" too low in the rear compared to the front.
If I mount it below, it's about 2.5" too high.

I might take a trip to Brute Spring and see what they thing is better....making me new leafs 4" taller, or making new ones 2" lower.

It's either that, or I drill out the rivets on the forward leaf mounts and move them up to the top of the frame and see how much lower that gets it with the axle below the leafs.

Another issue, is the explorer rear is narrower than the Crown Vic front... if I measure center of tire to center of tire, rear is 10" narrower. the tires would currently rub the inside face of the wheelwells on the bed of the truck. so, it appears I need to run some much wider rears with less backspacing. But I'd also like them to match the front, so now I'm super glad I only paid $40 for the steelies, cause I'll probably have to buy staggered wheels to make it all work.

Adjusted the front leaf spring mounts and got ride height where I want. Did some measuring, and for the rear wheels to be flush to the width of the front and also not rub inner fender, I need 9" wide with 3" backspace.

so, Diamond Racing has 16x10 ET -51 available at $165/ea in black powdercoated steel wheels. plus shipping.

or, summit has some Pro-comp wheels, 16x10 with 4" BS @ $96/ea, which would require 1" spacers ($24/ea) and extended studs ($13/side) which comes to $133/side total, with free shipping.

I'm probably just going to get the diamond racing ones to avoid [censored] around with all that spacer and stud ****, even though it's probably gonna cost $200 more. I emailed Diamond to get a complete quote.

I could get 15's on summit in the specs I need, but if I'm stepping away from 16's I'd rather be into 17's all around but that's even harder to get without custom ordering somewhere.

So now I'm thinking I'm better off with a different rear axle.

Stock Dana 60 is 65"

explorer is 59.625"

F150 is 65.5, but drum brake

crown victoria is 62.8"

I think I have to ditch this explorer disc brake 31 spline 8.8 in lieu of a crown vic rear end if I want disc brakes out back.

so, trying to maintain steam on the project, last night I got the new swaybar mounting brackets in place, drilled and bolted in. Then I moved on to yank the brake booster/master, pedal assembly, steering column and brace for that, and then started getting the mustang brake master and pedal box in. the two mount together sandwiching the firewall. I drilled the holes base on the existing opening for the plunger linkage to pass through the firewall, and upon bolting the pedal box on the other side realized it puts the brake pedal where the steering column needs to be. So I took it all back out and called it a night. going to have to decide if I want to move it or make new pedals that loop around the column somehow.





f250 master vs mustang one:



{I never did get the hydroboost connected, but I have planned that out and need to source some custom fittings for the rack. there is a company that makes them for newer Ford focus's called Massive Speed System, and I'm asking them for measurements as I have a hunch the rack fittings are the same as the CV}

got the brake master mounted and figured out how I can get around the issue with the brake lever on the pedal box hitting the steering column....I'll get pics of that when I modify the pedalbox and whatnot.

I have been spending my evening cutting out the rusty floors and front cab mounts, replacing with fresh metal.

Passenger side is complete, driver side is cut out.

before shot:



here's the new pan and cab mount in place on the passenger side, and the rusty bit of firewall above the flange seam









Seam sealed



Driver side











{gonna break this into more posts so I don't find the limit per post haha}

[focusinprogress]

Decided it was time to get seating in order. Last night I made up a seat base to mount to the floor of the truck and mount the 2001 f-150 seats to it. somehow managed to retain use of the slider lever after some bending of them to get them to work.









and the storage bin that I swiped from the same truck as the seats manages to fit as well!





ideally I wanted this very seat set in tan, but when scouring the junkyard beggars cant be choosers. the stock bench seat was ROMPED and I hated how bouncy it was. I am building this truck to use, and use often....so I want it to be comfortable. I am hoping I can find some reasonably priced covers for these seats to make them look more like they belong in the truck. I absolutely love having the armrest that folds up to still provide a third seat when needed.

had some help from my buddy Tom last night getting the cab rolled onto it's back....

welded the remaining seams of the cab mounts to the floor pans, wire wheeled the entire bottom of the cab, and then coated in in rust encapsulater (knockoff POR15)







also got some goodies from Summit again, these leaf spring pads are only $6ea which is so cheap it didn't make sense to make my own. hoping to mockup drivetrain over the weekend so I can get these welded to the rear axle.



Weekend couldn't have gone any better for the build.

Friday night I wire-wheeled the section of frame that's under the cab in prep for rust encapsilater and chassis coat paint.

Saturday morning I did the rust encapsilater and cut my front frame braces out and then did two side jobs.

Sunday afternoon I went and removed the mustang cross member, steering rack, and lower control arms from the motor. Then swapped on the brand new crown vic mounts, and set the eng/trans in place. Grabbed the stock trans crossmember from when I pulled the C6 auto and as it turns out it'll work as-is. Score again. Also, the stock speedo cable will mount right in the VSS from the T-45 and happens to already have the correct tooth count. YAY!

After dinner sunday I decided I wanted to get the rear axle situated. So I hacked off all the coil spring and 4-link parts and prepped for the leaf pads. Put the truck on wheel dollies so I could get the front wheels straight and start taking measurements. after about an hour and 20 mins I had everything where it needed to be including pinion angle set, and welded up the leaf pads. super happy to have gotten this far over the weekend. next thing to worry about is exhaust and oil filter.....you'll see why.

Right as I finished applying rust encapsilater before it started turning purple and black



After I had applied chassis coat





{I later repair that passenger side cab mount that has the hole rusted about 40% larger in diameter than it's supposed to be}

Engine and trans home



stock trans member works! LUCKY!



{now that I've been driving the truck, the fact I hard-mounted the trans might be an issue for comfort/driveability. I may pull the crossmember out and make one from scratch with bushing mounts to absorb vibrations and allow some forgiveness}

well, this might pose an issue...gonna need a 90* adapter or relocation setup



well, looks like mustang cat-delete mid pipes may not fit.... might have to get some 2.5" bends and some flanges and make my own



{I later bought what was advertised as cat-deletes and they were NOT those...but I made them work by cutting them up and making some pie-cuts to direct the pipes where I wanted}



Bye 4-link



leaf pads in place





setting angle





welded





So, I decided against running a mid 60's mustang tank mounted in the rear of the frame under the bed.....because it's $500 for a tank with an EFI sending unit in it. I'd also have to find a different rear bumper and convert to a flip-down plate to run a behind-plate fuel filler neck.

I instead am running an in-line fuel pump pulling from the stock fuel tank under the driver side of the cab and bed. This was closer to $100 in parts for a pump and inline fuel filter. issue now is, with that stock tank I don't have room to run a driver side exhaust unless I go underneath the tank and then ground clearance is a concern. So I made up the intermediate pipes that come off the manifolds last night, but I need to cross under the trans and make a Y pipe to get the driver side connected to the passenger side and run one single pipe out the back on the passenger side.

So, constantly waiting on parts and discovering more stuff I need.....

to make a long story longer, I had asked summitracing's tech dept about a set of "intermediate pipes" for a 98 mustang GT on the site....asking if they replaced the cat's in an off-road situation. I was told "yes thats correct" so I ordered. Not knowing much about mustangs, I though I was just missing a donut gasket for the passenger side as both pipes that showed up have the ball-style end on them. Well, they didn't fit as-is. I didn't expect them to fit 100%, but they were like 130* off, aiming straight into the frame. I made some pie cuts in them to get them to play nicer, and THEN discovered they were actually meant to go at the ends of the cat/mid-pipe system for connecting off-the-shelf aftermarket mufflers to the stock cats. FML. So, on top of not being able to run dual exhaust, I'm not faily unhappy with the exhaust as a whole. good thing it's cheap aluminized steel and I'll want to revisit the exhaust in the future. At this point I'll probably pay muffleman or some **** to build one next year.

anyways, I cut up some cheap U-bends and built a Y-pipe setup to a 35" glasspack and will have a turn-out before the rear wheel. I ordered a donut gasket and new hardware for the manifolds so I can make this work. I also welded the rear shock mounts to the axle, and flipped the Crown Vic rear swaybar upside-down and backwars so I can mount endlinks to the frame behind. quick measuring and Pirite(Luke) says ford taurus rear links should be perfect, so he's ordering me a pair through work (if they don't fit he can send them back fo free).

Thought I took more pics but I guess not. here's what I did take.



















I left one weld as just a couple tacks so I have a place to put a pair of flanges so this thing comes apart for future maintenance and repair.

Haven't posted much cause for a while it was looking like negative progress. I pulled the motor and trans back out, pullled the crown vic front suspension back out, wire wheeled the front 1/3rd of the frame, POR15'd it, blasted some of the brackets and had Kamilitaryman Powdercoat them for me, and then re-installed everything for hopefully the last time. Finished the exhaust, installed the oil filter relocation kit (drilled two holes in frame and installed grommets to pass the lines through so they wouldn't be kinked) and installed a short throw shifter (since I'm gonna have like an 18" lever)




















hit the junkyard on saturday and was barely lucky enough to find anything I needed. Got an aluminum driveshaft out of a ford econoline van that's gonna work with a yoke swap, some of the wiring pigtails that were busted or missing from my harness, and an electric fan from a grand marquis. Also, @mahoneybags21 was nice enough to grab my dual core all aluminum rad from MAC's before swinging to the junkyard to help me yank all this crap.





got the old body mounts torched out with @checko, and wirewheeled most of the rear frame. got sick of tossing rust dust and drilled some holes to fit up the crown vic rear swaybar and brand new taurus end links.





gonna clean up the econoline DS and drop it off at fleetpride tomorrow with the ***** steel mustang DS to have them swap the yoke with new u-joints and balance it. gonna finish the rear of the frame tonight and get it in POR15, and if time permits move on to begin pulling my hair out and swearing at a wiring harness. hopefully have fuel and brake lines done mid-week and see if I can manage to have the harness done by the weekend. Need to locate a pre-98 4.6 MAF sensor, I realized I don't have one, and every single 4.6 at M&M had it pulled already.

well, driveshaft **** was a total bust. The econoline shaft I got at M&M had a small dent in it won't balance out. The trans yoke is different, and so are the U-joint sizes. The mustang yoke apparently was shot anyway, the cups for the U-joints just spin in it anyways. luckily, I paid the extra $2 for warranty on the econoline shaft so I can return it.....but it was the only one they had, and I don't want to sit and wait for another to show up in the yard and the warranty is only 30days anyhow.

best case scenario, I'd be able to trade it out for one that isn't dented, then would need a new yoke, conversion U-joint, and balance....which is about $165 or so.

Fleetpride can make me a custom shaft, brand new....with all new parts and u-joints, for $294 out the door. so I said do it.

[focusinprogress]

back half of the frame is done in rust encapsilator and chassis coat



started on wiring......replaced the [censored] up pigtails for the coil packs, cam sensor, MAF, and IAT. Then laid out the whole harness I received from the infamous mustang owner that sold me all this ****. Many cut wires and a lot of stuff I have no idea what it goes to but assume is unnecessary....so I've called in help for this evening to look over the harness and label what I need to keep.....

I was able to determine what wires were for ABS and the headlights, turns, fogs, and horns.....all of it is now clipped out.

YAY WIRING

{I hate wiring}



I HAVE A DRIVESHAFT!



also, I decided the best way to address the wiring was pick colors I don't like and cut those color wires out, starting with the color I like least working my way to only having colors I thought would look nice in my [censored] in the harness. Hopefully this approach works well.

{joke. hopefully my sense of humor is coming through the internet OK}





over the weekend I broke down and ordered a factory wiring manual. Google wasn't cutting it.

I also went to the junkyard to grab some small things I needed....like a rear end brake "Y" for the brake lines, these anti-interference resistor things for the coil packs, and a shift boot. temporarily mounted my fuel pump and filter where I want them, soldered a return fitting to the fuel pickup, made an old broken ratchet into my shifter, made the tunnel cover fit over the shifter via holesaw, and mocked up the boot.








Oh, the wilwood brake proportioning valve fits perfect where the previous fuel tank switch went with a nice grommet. will be able to reach down next to my seat belt to adjust on the fly.






underneath



pump and filter along passenger frame rail





{ziptie EVERYTHING}

all the brake lines are done, bed is back on and bolted down, and I made an exhaust hanger about 3/4 the way down the pipe. starting to look like a truck again.....

things left:
-Wiring
-power steering lines
-fuel lines
-steering linkage
-clutch cable
-throttle cable
-reassemble front clip and mount doors













{don't mine the non-fitting U-bolts. bought them online and they obviously were wrong. had some made up locally at Brute Spring and swapped them out later}

Also....I went to the junkyard to try to pull the A/c stuff from the '76 and everything I touched crumbled from age. Gave up on it....and Checko made a good point....I have two other vehicles and multiple motorcycles....if it's "too hot" I can drive something else. also truck has slider rear window and smokers windows so should be no big deal. f**k A/c.

Well, I spent the entire day on wiring.

I went on ebay last week and bought a CD with all of the diagrams on it, down to specific pin-outs of each connector and how the wires are route in the mustang to help locate said connectors. garbage can is nearly full now, and I'm down to just making the truck's OEM key cylinder operate in place of the mustang weird slider-block ignition switch setup....and running wires to the in-line fuel pump in place of the mustang's fuel pump module. I've written crude plans for both....probably gonna do that monday after work and connect a battery and see if she rolls over. If it fires up and runs, I can route the wires how I want and trim/extend whatever I need to and loom it up.

Running list of what's left besides these minor wiring tasks:
-figure out power steering lines
-make steering column linkage to Crown Victoria rack
-run clutch cable
-run throttle cable
-run fuel lines (was suppsed to have hel here to do them in nylon, but tired of waiting. probably gonna run all EFI rubber line monday)
-add brake fluid and bleed
-change out rear dif cover and fluid
-top off trans fluid (leaked during R/R of drivetrain so many times)
-figure out coolant lines/res
-re-install front clip
-re-install rear cab glass
-re-mount doors
-bedliner cab floor
-re-wire original head/tail/turn/reverse lamps


some pics from today.









not at all sketchy way to pin-out ignition switches.

{humor}







Got the fuel pump wiring done last night, and got the truck's original ignition cylinder doing the job for the mustang ****. Turned key to "run" and the pump primed like a champ and shut down. turned to "start" and got a CLUNK from the starter and that's all she wrote. relay clicks like it should and power is getting to the solenoid terminal, but even jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver did nothing. tried smashing on it with a hammer, no dice. Got a starter on order from RockAuto, should be here thursday.

also, ebay intake for the mustang is complete ****. I mean, I guess that's what I get for $40, but the couplers were all oversized and sloppy, the MAF flange was like 5% too big as a footpring and I had to file all the holes inward and use some RTV to get it to bolt on and seal. It's also not going to fit the truck, so I'm gonna have to cut the two 90* bends out and just mount the end with the MAF onto the tube coming off the manifold.

anyway, I threw it on for now in hopes that after some fuel lines and a new starter I can hear it run.



saw this at mcdonald's and felt sad.



I actually was trying to buy that one before I found my truck, kid was leaving for the military and wanted to sell it but couldn't meet up and his mom kept not following up so I moved on. it's a 360 with a 4spd manual.

So, yesterday the starter came in. I bench tested it and it worked....so I put it in. Then it didn't work.

I swore and yelled and got mad and threw wrenches. Brian and Checko stepped in and helped diagnose. I had ground where I was supposed to have 12v, I had 12v where I was supposed to have power, and nothing made any damn sense. Thank god they stepped in with clear heads, because I was way too mad to move forward. We started unplugging things and figuring out what was causing backwards voltage and whatnot, and as it turned out the problem was not having a heavy ground wire connected to a good ground on the frame from the battery.

So, then I tossed a noid light on one of the injector plugs to see if I had pulse when cranking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... WD5A285EYY

so I was ready to call it a night, but the guys made a good point.....why get as far as we did and then NOT hear it run!? so we made up a janky fuel can setup and gave it a shot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqgO37dITtk

{don't know how to embed video on here}

Also got my inner fenders sandblasted for $70.



now I can move on to driver controls sorting.

so, fuel lines.

Normally you have to have some fancy special tool....I thought maybe I could rent it at like autozone or advance but no dice. quick youtube search, and this method surfaces. $7 caulk gun and the clamp from a brakeline flare tool. worked like a charm for the plastic fittings in the nylon line....brass was a pain in the nuts though....I ended up sanding the nubs off an extra plastic one to use it to stretch the nylon line a bit before oiling and ramming the brass in.







{I hated making the fuel lines almost as much as I hate wiring}

then ran the clutch cable





was on a roll, thought I'd get the gas pedal in and see about making a cable/linkage to the TB, but realized my pedal was busted and previous owner had it rigged to barely work. gonna have to source a new one on ebay....

{got one for $20 shipped, maybe from one of you! THANKS}



got the steering column in and made up a connection linkage using a piece of a crown vic shaft I sawzalled off at the junkyard



apparently I took all blurry pics this weekend. f**kin A.

anyways, I [censored] up on the steering linkage because I thought I could use the original damper pad mounting rig from the stock column, but it just made everything sloppy. since I already cut, sleeved, welded and pinned the linkage, I needed a 1/4" spacer give or take. raided the scrap bin and welded a motorcycle front sprocket in. LOL. it's pretty well centered and does the job.



Saturday morning my dad and I went to the junkyard. got a power steering pump and lines and res from an 09 police interceptor.....

got back to the shop and @mahoneybags21 met us there and we all got to wrenching. Swapped thermostat to a 180* with new gasket, new serp belt, new tensioner, new idler, A/C delete pulley and mount, installed front core support, inner fenders, battery, re-routed tons of wires, mounted the rad, bolted the oil filter relocation to the frame rail, and modded the intake kit to fit in the bay.

sunday I went and swapped rear diff cover and fluid, swapped all the rear U-bolts for the axle, swapped trans fluid, connected in the stock truck's harness in(deleted OG charging system and whatnot)

What's left....
-load up as many gas cans I can find and fill her up
-fill and burp cooling system
-fill and burp power steering
-tighten all brake lines and fill/bleed
-bedliner cab floor
-install rear glass
-install new door seals
-mount doors, fenders, front grille assembly, front bumper, hood, ladder rack
-check lights (most likely diagnose and do some wiring)

Here's the few pictures I managed to stop and take over the weekend. Probably won't get back to the truck until after thanksgiving, as Checko and I are trying to wrap up the cb360 build for a swap meet friday.











Went through and made sure all the brake fittings were tight, bled the system, changed the oil, filled and burped coolant, bolted in all the cab mounts, deleted the EGR and welded the port on the manifold closed, mounted the fan, put her on the ground, and hopped in to turn the key and see what happened.



only thing remotely necessary to take a pic of was the fan in place, LOL.

oh, then this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KnkuVfZdZc

{still can't embed video}

So, friday was a huge day. My dad and I put the new gasket/seal on the rear window and roped it in (that was interesting ). Then @mahoneybags23 came by and we started putting the front clip back together. @pirite showed up and helped me diagnose/wire up the turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights. Bedliner'd the cab floor, etch primed the seat mount frame, new door seals, mounted the doors, cleaned the glass, etc. Pirite installed my woodgrain GRANT wheel from summit (although crooked ). Drove it home last night, and to work this morning. Visiting Pirite after work today for inspection. Then I can move on to slowly making it comfortable......blower motor currently doesn't kick on, windshield squirts don't squirt, dash doesn't illuminate, speedo and odo aren't working for some reason even though cable is connected.....both window scissor cranks are shot and need replaced, and I'd like to do some sound deadening on the inside of the doors and rear of cab. Maybe I'll start looking for a radio and speakers.

anyway, pics.

Oh, and mahoney DID buy me the rage-face meme decal, and I will rep it proudly.

[focusinprogress]

well, I had a really close call a little over a week ago with the truck.....long story short refuse to drive it without getting the power brakes functioning. Problem is, I have a mustang hydroboost master but a crown victoria rack. the mustang rack has threaded fittings for the high pressure lines but the crown victoria has captive o-ring fittings held in place with a locking collar.....

Luckily, ford uses the captive o-ring fittings on a bunch of cars....and to my luck there's a company that makes an AN conversion fitting for the ford focus for guys re-routing their lines and converting to AN......so I contacted Massive Speed System and asked if they'd sell me just the "in" fitting rather than the entire kit....and then was able to order the rest of the fittings and line from Summit......

The purple fitting is the one custom made by Massive Speed System for the crown victoria rack. They make a kit for both fittings (the other goes to the reservior) complete with all new o-rings, hardware, and that E-shaped retaining plate. I opted to only get the fitting for the line that will now go from the booster to the rack. For those that don't know, the hydroboost has three ports....the high pressure line that normally runs from the pump to the rack will now go to the booster, then booster to rack. the third (forward-most) port get's Tee'd into the return hose to the reservoir.



A buddy has all the tools for making up the AN lines so I'll probably bribe him with beer to come help me out early next week and plumb these up.

in the meantime I started looking into other things....

Heat now works, turns out the fuse had just gotten dirty and a little wiggle powered the blower back up.

patched some wires and got the dash illumination working, removed the steering wheel and centered it properly, re-glued my rearview mirror in place, and adjusted the pedals a bit.

Tested my speedo and it works so I think I just didn't have the cable in all the way, so hoping that magically works when I drive it again.

turns out all the mustang sensors run 0-5v signal and that's what the stock cluster is regulated to so I can just run wires from the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors straight to the stock truck cluster, so that's on the list too. Just need to figure out how to wire up the fuel gauge now and I'm probably going to replace the "glass" for the cluster. My dad got me new defrost vent ducting and all new window seals for christmas so that's on the list to get done soon as well.

[focusinprogress]

well, I've now learned the wrong way....followed by the right way to make up teflon AN lines. Have hydroboost functioning now.









(pics make that elbow look much closer to the oil filter housing but there's almost 1/4" of clearance)

[redlinemotorsportts]

Neat, where are you from in NY? Im northern fingerlakes area. Where'd you get the oil filter relocation piece to? Looks like your getting there. Any things you wanted to do next?

[focusinprogress]

Neat, where are you from in NY? Im northern fingerlakes area. Where'd you get the oil filter relocation piece to? Looks like your getting there. Any things you wanted to do next?

Sorry, I never received notification anyone posted. I'm from Buffalo, NY 14225. I got the relocation kit from summit racing.

I've decided to sell the truck. I completed the swap and put probably 1000 miles on it, but my business is growing and I need to sell this to get into something I can haul with for long trips. I've made a for sale ad here as well as local Craigslist.

I am asking $6000 or best offer. I can be reached best by email at nick.edsell@gmail.com

[focusinprogress]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Ford-F-100 ... 2265200115


truck is now on ebay for a wider audience.

[67mann]

hell of a build...Good luck with your sale