Riveting floor plans

[hillcountryflt]

Is riveting floor plans, instead of cutting out and welding in replacement pans a bad idea on a vehicle were you are not too concerned about "restoration" quality?
I know I can't do this with my cab corners, but seems on the floor boards, that would not be a terrible idea, provided one was heavy with por 15 on the old and new pans, etc.
Not nearly read to start any body work, but looking at some options while I crawl around under the truck pulling the tranny, clutch, etc.

[tnab1970]

What we did: remove rusted area only, not the entire floor pan. we then trimmed the new floor pan to fit the cab floor as need. I then drilled a series of 1/4" holes on 2 inch centers all the way around the edge of the NEW pan. We laid new pan in place and spot welded all the hole to the existing original floor. Finally seam sealed top and bottom as needed. See pic. Sorry for quality only one I could find quickly.

[MAK]

I think using panel adhesive would be a very good alternative if done correctly and would also help prevent rust from starting in between the overlapped sections.

[convincor]

Friend of mine just did floors in his jeep with construction adhesive and drill screws.
Sprayed bed liner over everything when done. Doesn't look to bad.. Just not my style.

[Dan]

Would it work for function? Sure, and just seal it well etc.

The real question is what's the future plan for the truck? Because if this is someday going to be used for anything higher level other than basic function then think about the guy who will have to remove it all and start over.

The only thing worse than having to fix something body related on any vehicle, is fixing somebody's incorrect previous repair because it always makes the problem much worse and leaves you with much less good material to fix it with.

But again, I'm not saying your idea is wrong, all I am saying is make sure what your future plans are to save yourself some headache later if you know what I am saying?

If you do rivet it together I'd suggest making sure the two panels are tight at the time you rivet to ensure the rivet gets a full and tight squeeze. either with clamps or you can have someone under the truck pushing up with a hammer handle or something at each location as you go.

[Fordyarddog]

I just replaced half the passenger side floor pan and the complete drivers side floor pan using the pop rivet method in my 68 F100. Pop Riveting the floor pans are old school. I over lapped the new floor pan over the existing pan edge one inch, used a metal to metal glue and placed the pop rivets 1 inch on center down the middle of the lap and then sealed the edges with a sealer compound on top and bottom. I have always done it this way and had no problems.

[Canonman67]

IF you do rivet it do as the others have suggested and do it right. The PO did my floors with rivets and the panels were in layers and loose in some cases causing even more problems. He turned it into a mess that trapped moisture and dirt. I welded the new floors in but if the Po had followed any of the processes here I'm sure I could have left them alone. Good luck.

[Fordyarddog]

I forgot to tell you to be SURE you cut out the old pans and when you mark the new pans to trim it and be sure and over cut the new pans 1 inch for the lap. DO NOT install the new pans directly over the old ones. Like canonman67 said it will cause you a lot of problems later on. Just be careful and don't forget to fasten the pans to the cab mounts. The cab mounts is what makes your pans stiff.

[Fordyarddog]

I was helping a friend finish up the installation on his new floor pans in his 65 F100 and I realized that I didn't tell you what type sealer compound to use on your floor pans after you get them installed. We installed his pans the same way with pop rivets spaced 1 inch on center down the middle of the lap using a metal to metal glue and that's when I realized that I didn't tell you what type of sealer to use. You need to use Eastwood Brushable Seam Sealer both inside and out. Spread it out about a 1 1/2 inch top and botton and spray it with with Eastwood Painting PRE and then smooth it out with your finger. If you really want it to look neat and clean, tap off that 1 1/2 and then remove the tap after you spray and smooth the seam sealer out. Let dry for 1 hour and then you can paint over it. This is what I used. It's the same if not better than the original seam sealers used by the manufactures. WARNING: Use this product in a well vent area. The flumes are very strong.