Bed Prep & Finish Questions

[MAK]

I need some advice about the best way to prep my bed for the primer and paint. I already spent two days blasting and I'm still not sure it's good enough. All the pits still have some dark spots which I assume is oxidation. The pitted areas aren't as thin as they look. I can't force an awl through any of the pits even rapping hard with my hand. If I hold the blast stream long enough over the darker spots then they eventually come clean but I'm not sure I have it in me to spend that much more time. I think I'm looking at two more solid days of blasting at the rate I've gone so far.
Is it necessary to have all the pits perfectly clean or will the rust eventually come back through even if it has a good coating of epoxy? My plan was to cover in epoxy primer and probably eventually get it sprayed with Line-X.
My other question is about all the seams that originally were filled with seam sealer/putty. All along the edges where the bottom meets the sides, along the wheel wells, and where the ribbed section meets the flat sections in front and behind the wheels. I still have some digging and picking to get all the old cracked hard stuff out. Anyway, when does new seam sealer go in? I assume I put down the epoxy primer first and then the sealer goes down before the finish layer of paint?? What about if I plan to go with Line-X? Is it ok to have the seam sealer there under the Line-X??
Thanks for any suggestions or input about your experiences.

[cep62]

I guess it depends on what you are planning on doing with the truck.
That looks blasted clean enough for epoxy primer , the areas that still have paint sand real good with 80 - 180 ish.

If you're doing body filler you can put it over epoxy once its cured and sanded.
If you insist on LineX check with them,but I'd seal the seams first so you don't get moisture under the bed liner.

[MAK]

I plan on stripping all the remaining paint off before primer. What's left though just doesn't need to be blasted. It comes off pretty easy with the resin stripping discs or abrasive paper. I've still got a few rusty spots to fill and some small dents to work a little more so I don't need as much filler over the epoxy. The tailgate is what's giving me fits now. What I thought was nice and straight with just a few dents across the top has a little bit of a bow I'm not sure how to get out. Those small intentions on the top are a bear to move. Metal is so thick and with the tight curve they just don't want to pull or hammer easily...

[Dave Severson]

I have been using a product called 'Phix' over the pitted spots prior to epoxy primer, around here it's available through my favorite auto body supply store. So far (about 10 years time) I've been quite happy with the results....

As for the dents in the rolled edges they do take some effort. I use my stud gun, then pull on it with the small hand puller while tapping on the edges of the dents with a body hammer then using the puller to remove the rest of the dent. Some of them can be terribly stubborn!

[MAK]

I have been using a product called 'Phix' over the pitted spots prior to epoxy primer, around here it's available through my favorite auto body supply store. So far (about 10 years time) I've been quite happy with the results....

As for the dents in the rolled edges they do take some effort. I use my stud gun, then pull on it with the small hand puller while tapping on the edges of the dents with a body hammer then using the puller to remove the rest of the dent. Some of them can be terribly stubborn!

Never heard of Phix. I've been using Ospho in the past to get that last little bit of rust off but I always worry about getting all of it off after the fact. Just did some reading on it in some of the other forums and checked the SPI forum. Gets good recommendations like Ospho but they claim it's best to get it all washed off before the epoxy. I can't imagine how any of the Ospho or Phix film left in the pits could cause problems. I guess I can see where the Epoxy might not have as good adhesion through the residue film. I haven't sprayed the bed with anything yet because I worry about the flash rust from rinsing it off with water when everything is clean... When I have used on other parts it was a lot easier than a big flat truck bed to quickly get all the water off... I'll have to get some of the Phix to try.
Yeah, I had been using my stud gun but those dents are so tough to pull that they just kept coming loose. Ended up tack welding a bunch of nails but even those would rip off and leave holes... I need to try it one more time when I have a helper who can heat the spots up with a torch while I work the hammer and slide-hammer.

[Dave Severson]

Phix doesn't require a rinse, the directions say to apply the last coat, give it 15 minutes, shoot the primer over it! I put on the final coat quite thin and scrub it in good with a Scotch Bright (purple) pad, give it 15 minutes or more, making sure the surface is dry to the touch, and shoot epoxy primer over it. No problems with anything I've used it on. If the surface rust is bad, when I put on the first coat I also work it in to the little pits and scratches with a Scotch Bright, let it completely dry for a couple days then sand it again with 80 grit. Seems to loosen up a lot more of the surface rust and a lot more comes off with sanding! Very good product for me!!!!