I was going to fit the doorskin repair panels myself and take it to a welder for the welding? Well nothing is easy nowadays/ "project too small", "I'll do the whole job for around $700", etc..
So I decided to <do it myself> once again and figure out how to improvise.
I decided I could do it using autobody adhesive just across the top overlap of the doorskin panel, and crimp over the other 3 sides using...roofing tar.
Heres the project:
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initially I was just going to weld in patches in the corners, thats why the rusted corners are cut out. I decided to do the whole bottom doorskins. Took my 4 inch grinder with metal cutting wheel to do all the cutting. Decided I would butt the metal on the two top corners so it would be flush, and overlap the top of the doorskin using the panel adhesive. Heres the cutting and fitting setup:
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I got the doorskin bottoms from BOP for around $25/apiece. They were ok, Chinese made around 18 guage metal, but were rough and I wanted the exact width of the original door,so it was trimmed carefully. Then my plan was to dump in some asphalt-based roofing tar (from DAP) into the bottom fold, and the two vertical folded sides, and crimp those folded metal parts onto the door's inner frame. The panel adhesive would be used on the top overlap.
Here it is attached, the bottom and sides crimped over, just using vicegrips, (set just right!), and the top overlapped using the adhesive with pop rivets for clamping pressure.
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The pop rivets were later grinded off after the adhesive was dry, and pushed through to leave the holes which were filled with the skim coat of bondo. (Indent the holes somewhat for bondo to cling, and on the inside of the door, smear tar over the bondo sqeeze-through). Here is the repair skimmed with bondo, sanded out and primed (Rustoleum Auto primer).
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And of course since my truck is a rattlecan spray job, I am able to spray it to match very easily
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Driveway doorskin bottoms. I did both sides.