67 f100, 600+ft-lbs, bb429power build

[zakt]

where you getting your cab acid dipped?? I will be sending my core support out soon then want to do the cab and bed. Sending/taking mine to the below

http://www.metaldipping.com/index.php

[bb429power]

where you getting your cab acid dipped?? I will be sending my core support out soon then want to do the cab and bed. Sending/taking mine to the below

http://www.metaldipping.com/index.php

It was a local place called Redicoat. I am pretty pissed about how it was treated though, the roof had two places that were scraped which dented it in. Now I cant sand over top of it because it is so dang week. Other than that they were good. Some rust was left in some small area's like creases where the two body panels meet.
http://redi-coat.com/qa.html

[averagef250]

I've had things dipped and I'd never do it again. I think it makes the job much harder in the long run because you have to deal with coating areas you can't get to.

These trucks are galvanized in certain areas. You dip it, you lose that. I'd expect a dipped body to rust apart sooner than one not dipped.

[bb429power]

I'm going to go over those tough to get areas with an undercoating gun. Hope it works out well. What parts are galvanized and what do you loose?

[averagef250]

The rockers are galvanized. Forget undercoat, just oil the stuff on a regular basis.

[Ranchero50]

Southern undercoating, used motor oil in a spray bottle.

Jamie

[bb429power]

I don't think I want to oil it. I was going to put primer in the undercoating gun and spray them.

[Caseys71]

Your bump is coming right along man, before you know it and you'll be driving it . And I don't think I'd wanna use oil under it either, IMO it just wouldn't be right especially on a freshly reclaimed bump.

[hazelnut]

I blasted my cab and after getting almost all the sand out i sprayed caterpiller paint inside the door hinge box, sprayed inside the vents on the kick panel and went up to the cowl area and sprayed as much as i could in there. When i sprayed the inside its hard to get to the cab corner so let the paint run down to cover it best i could, and after the paint dryed i used a small drill bit to open the drain holes up again because the paint will plug the drain holes. Im going to paint inside of the cowl when i find a spray cap i can swap out that has the straw so i can get good coverage inside the cowl without spraying paint allover the outside of the cowl. Hope that helped you on some thoughts for getting paint into those tight places. The reason i use caterpiller paint is it BONDS to the metal and isnt going to let water get behind it and start rusting again on you, you can buy it at any caterpiller dealership or service center for $7 a can or $45 a gallon, if you buy the spray bomb be sure to shake it good for 5 minutes or it will clog up on you, 2 minutes isnt long enuff.Its just thick and needs a good mixing thats all.

[bb429power]

Interesting, thanks for that I'll have to think on it a bit more and find out what I'll do.

[averagef250]

Rust, oxidation is a fact of life. Anyone who thinks undercoat and spraying tons of paint on a vehicle fixes it forever is very naive.

I don't care how nice your truck is or where you live. If it ever gets wet and you don't take the door panels off, spray a little motor oil down there and unplug the drain holes or the truck will rust. Same goes with the other body seams.

This isn't something you do to your beater, it's what you do to any truck if you want it to last forever. In time undercoat dries up and falls off. Plus it makes a mess of everything and no undercoat job is perfect.

You know what I love? Seeing all those decent old trucks that guy's got the beds, undersides and floorpans Linexed about 10 years ago when the stuff was super "cool" thinking it would make the truck last longer and be more valuable. Now, the beds are rusting away underneath the bedliner since you can't see it until you feel the floor flexing, the bedliner is cracking and falling off. Looks p*ss poor and it's almost impossible to strip that junk off.

[zakt]

thoughts on spraying POR15 in the spots?

[bb429power]

I've never used POR15. So I don't know how good it is. My brothers bronco is a Michigan truck (which all the bronco's in MI are rusted out) but this truck wasn't all rusted and the only thing that really saved it was the undercoating the P/O sprayed all over the inside of the doors..... we think but I'm not too sure. When I talk about the primer I would spray on it, I'm not talking about a rattle can primer. I'm talking about the epoxy stuff that goes in a gun and sticks to the parts really good. It gives the same finish as the POR15.

[averagef250]

I think the reality of all this stuff is that an old vehicle takes maintenance to keep it solid and close to rust free. If you do things just like the factory did, maybe grease some things a bit better than they did when you assemble them and just keep up on stuff by washing it frequently to keep the road salt and other corrosive stuff off and put some oil on the body areas that are effected by corrosion the truck will last a real long time. Sticky oil pretty much stops and prevents corrosion. Plus, when you need to repaint in 10 years the oil cleans up real easy compared to undercoat, por15 or linex.

If you undercoat, POR15 or linex it and don't plan on doing it all over again in 10-15 years you will have a rusty truck in 15-20 years, in reality much sooner if you didn't apply everything just right or failed to keep it nice and clean.

[bb429power]

I sure as heck hope I don't have to repaint it in 10 years! I'm doing a show car type of paint job and doing it right, I don't want to redo all of that. I'm aiming for a show quality finish. I need to think about this.