Spent the day working on my injection pump... getting her cleaned out and installing new o-rings and such. I'll take her down and get the barrels balanced when I'm done. I'll post some pics as soon as photobucket is back on!
New parts ordered.....
Hamilton 4130 pushrods
ARP main studs
HD rod bolts
Ti valve spring retainers & hardened keepers
Coming....
Injectors and Super Phat Shaft 62 to run on top of mt BW Airwerks S475
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
What are you shooting for power? That's an impressive pile of parts you're collecting there! If you plan on pulling with a good clutch that NV4500 might need some help.
averagef250 wrote:What are you shooting for power? That's an impressive pile of parts you're collecting there! If you plan on pulling with a good clutch that NV4500 might need some help.
Shooting for a minimum of 650 HP.
I'm going to pull the NV4500 out as I have to install the 1.375" input shaft and I want to get a good look at the main shaft to see if it had any 5th gear problems... if it looks good I'll updated the 5th gear nut and go with it, if it looks suspect then I'll put the updated shaft in. I also have a cast iron tail housing coming.
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
The 1 3/8" input is a wise upgrade over 800 lb/ft with traction. Have your flywheel machined to accept a ball pilot bearing as well. The dodge pilots just plain suck and cause more issues with NV4500 pocket bearings than you would believe. If you go to an aftermarket shaft don't pay for anything but torque king. Anything else is chinese crap. If you really plan to beat it having the gears and shafts cryo'd might be in your best interest, but it takes quite a bit to break a solid NV4500.
What a job! I'm done for the most part with the pump assembly...
This brownish orange (not the rust) goo is a sample of why my rack was stuck... It looked like glue, but I guess it was just gelled diesel fuel. I think if I would have ran this pump in this condition, I think that I would have been asking for problems....
One of the worst...
This was the best one....
Cleaned barrel assembly's
Barrels back in...
I used the 131 DV's with the 181 holders..
Almost finished...
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
what kind of KDP feedback do you need? i installed a KDP fix on my old cummins truck last year. seemed to be pretty straightforward. the kit i used is probably along the lines of what you want. its a heavy-duty contoured metal tab that is installed under the timing cover. the kit i used seemed to be much better than some of the others ive seen (be it the thin, crappy tabs or the screw through the side of the timing cover method).
let me know if you have any trouble with this. im no expert. you probably know far more than i do. but if you hit a snag with the KDP fix, i just might be able to help ya out.
1976 Ford F-150 Supercab 4x2 w/390FE engine C6 - 76,000 miles 1995 Taurus SHO 3.0L Yamaha V6 MTX w/Quaife LSD - 75,000 miles 2002 Dodge Neon R/T 2.0L I4 MTX - 91,000 miles 1993 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins 6x4 Flatbed MTX- 100,000 miles *SOLD*
What he's saying is he addressed the KDP with his own method. You can see the stamp marks he's made on the timing cover.
I would grind a washer before peening the case myself if I was worried about it. The vibrations that work that pin loose from the cast iron engine block will work it through the much softer aluminum just the same.
mad2smile wrote:what kind of KDP feedback do you need? i installed a KDP fix on my old cummins truck last year. seemed to be pretty straightforward. the kit i used is probably along the lines of what you want. its a heavy-duty contoured metal tab that is installed under the timing cover. the kit i used seemed to be much better than some of the others ive seen (be it the thin, crappy tabs or the screw through the side of the timing cover method).
let me know if you have any trouble with this. im no expert. you probably know far more than i do. but if you hit a snag with the KDP fix, i just might be able to help ya out.
I have the exact kit your talking about, but the new gear housing seems to be thicker in this area and the tab would not fit without filing down on the housing. So I went this route...
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!