got to work on the 67 today 5-6-10 flat bed put on

[SteveC]

not exactlly bolts but there is a nut that is around the tube...there is no o ring to the tube cause it and the pan are flared to fit together and be held with the nut...and the pan isnt square like most c-4's ive seen it is rectangle i looked all through the pictures of the pans and gaskets they had for these trucks and couldnt find it...i made one call to npd discribed the pan and they sent me a gasket in 3 days

I can get a picture later...

one a different subject i finally got the after market gauges installed and the temp gauge after warming up stays at around 170 ish so i guessing i have a 160 temostat??

EDIT i think if i remember correctlly both c-4 and c-6 were called the cruise o matic..at least in some of the old old haynes service manuals

[rjewkes]

ok sounds close to a c4. could it be a c5 didn't they make a c5?

and did you get the right gasket now?

I think your right.

[SteveC]

yea i got the right gasket npd guy in michigan knew exactlly what gasket it has all i did was discribe it a bit....

i will say so ways down the road if i run across a 67 with manual tranny i will convert mine to a 4 speed i like a manual better anyways.. but for now the auto gets me were i wanna go.

the tranny on mine goes like this

0-5-10 miles a hour is first

11-20 ,25 is second

and third is 26 up to 65 is as fast as i have drove it with out 3000 + rpms

is this normal?? for 4.10 gears?? or should i look at rebuilding a tranny soon?

it shifts fairly smooth a little jump from first to second once in a while
havent been able to check all the bolts and drive line stuff...in fact not sure how to check that kinda stuff yet.

[SteveC]

today i was driving to work when i heard a small pop and then sounded like a metal on metal scraping noise coming from the left front wheel so i figured i look at it when i get home ...fast forward 4 hours and when i got the wheel and drum pulled off the spring holding the bottem shoe to the automatic adjuster had snapped in two and was dragging in the bottom of the drum

so looks like i be ordering a new spring set.....

AND are these springs suppose to be hard as heck to stretch???

[72stepside]

Trust me, you rattle can those rims white and it'll look like a new truck!!!!

[SteveC]

they were originally light blue but white might look nice the front bumper will be repainted white and the back grey cause that is what it was originally

[rjewkes]

yes they should be a litle stiff.

[SteveC]

ok had a litle fun getting ready to insulate the inside of my truck to make the ride a little quieter i got every thing i wanted out expect the drivers side door panel pulled apart and the floor cleaned.

I also finished making a new wiring harness for the dome light switches so i can see when the door is opened.

headliner removed..found out that a couple of the lights leaked a bit this last rain fall



new gauges installed that i was talking about a while ago


a little bit of surface rust on both sides by the door but not reall bad. Should i cover this up with a bit of roofing tar??


like i said i need to clean 40+ years of dirt





Ok now the thing that im not quite understanding is were do i insulate on the doors...inside the door? or behind the panel



the harness i made from just having the ends of the harness from a badly side swiped 71 f250.



the garage is gonna be piled with stuff for a while




just let me know what you all think

thanks

BTW anyway know what the bloody heck this thing is???? i found it under the rubber mat near the tranny hump on the drivers side

[mljjones67]

I would say insulate inside the door
and the panel if you can.
I dont know what that is????

[basketcase0302]

Steve,

a little bit of surface rust on both sides by the door but not reall bad. Should i cover this up with a bit of roofing tar??

Roofing cement would just hold the rust/moisture in causing the rust to continue to get worse.
Maybe POR15 and try to paint?

The pictures are nice, thanks!

Jeff

[SteveC]

i decided against roofing tar cause of that reason... thanks and i also fixed that cause of what made it rust in the first place

i will update later today with pictures of the install process

[Thunderfoot]

Steve,
Looking good
Hey, can you get some better pics of your seat belts? Do you know what they are out of and how do you like them? fit / feel ok in the seat?

Thanks!

[SteveC]

sure ill get some better pics i got them from seat belt pros i did the same thing seatle67 did... http://www.seatbeltpros.com/ i love the fit myself...wife doesnt so much cause they kinda are a pain to get use to buckle..but that is the chrome lift lever you could get the regular push button and be fine.

[JWW]

Looking good. I'm glad to see the progress.

[SteveC]

ok i got every thing insulated i wanted to...I did the floor inside the door panels(didnt do inside the doors just yet) and above the headliner

I will say the hardest thing to do was insulate the headliner area..compared to that putting the headliner back up by my self was a breeeeze.

OK first order of business was some better pictuers of the new seat belts for
Thunderfoot Btw if these arnt good enough let me know and ill try to get better ones








OK now on to the truck i had one of the doors all done insulated and put back together before i relized that i had better take pictures

he is the door cleaned up


The back of the panel cleaned up


The insulation cut to fit and glued on


door panel reinstalled


and the door hardwear put back on ..never could tell that i did a thing



Now that is both doors done i decided to move on to the floor..originally i wasnt gonna put the silver back stuff on but i had got way more than i though i would out of one roll so i went with it





while that was being done i layed out the OE mat and let it stretch out a bit


after about a hour of working on the sound proofing i got the OE mat added in


after that p i t b I diecided that it was time to start getting the seat put back in i put the track back in and got the fuel selector valve put back on


the seat went back in fairly easy..(considering i did this all my self)


i didnt get any pics of the headliner install since it was hard enough to just get the insulation to stay up there but i will say it is best to do it a half at a time


And since i had time left over i installed the dome light harness i made
and got the one switch(cant find the other one i have yet) hooked up and i have a functioning dome light when the doors open


Thanks all that read these long posts..
More to come later as i fix my drivers side brakes broken return springs

Steve C