![Image](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l158/mljjones67/HPIM2339.jpg)
MLJJONES67 PROJECT CUMMINS put away for winter
Moderator: FORDification
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
Hers is a pair of mustang seats that will be going in the truck. They will be recovered. Not sure of the color yet. Black or dark blue??
![Image](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l158/mljjones67/HPIM2339.jpg)
![Image](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l158/mljjones67/HPIM2339.jpg)
Last edited by mljjones67 on Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek
Lookin good Mike! Good deal on the tranny setup and the engine stand. It looks stout enough to hold the 5.9.
I found the medium length cummins head bolts worked fine for bolting to my engine stand. If you have to pull the whole front of the engine off you might as well yank the head too. A lot of the early engines have weak head gaskets just from time/miles. Make sure you eat your wheaties before taking the head off though. Not only does it weigh a ton, but torquing the thing back down could kill you if you're out of shape!
I'm sure you could just notch the crossmember and reinforce it and be fine. The D44 front axle would probably be fine as well. The balljoints go 50-100K under big block weight. If you had to change them every 30-40K that's still a long time unless you really plan to drive the wheels off the truck.
I found the medium length cummins head bolts worked fine for bolting to my engine stand. If you have to pull the whole front of the engine off you might as well yank the head too. A lot of the early engines have weak head gaskets just from time/miles. Make sure you eat your wheaties before taking the head off though. Not only does it weigh a ton, but torquing the thing back down could kill you if you're out of shape!
I'm sure you could just notch the crossmember and reinforce it and be fine. The D44 front axle would probably be fine as well. The balljoints go 50-100K under big block weight. If you had to change them every 30-40K that's still a long time unless you really plan to drive the wheels off the truck.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
cool link on the 6bt power numbers and specs
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/91specs.html
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/91specs.html
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek
As long as you keep the shifter stub on the ZF you can fab your old stick to fit. I would have cut the old stick off though and welded your stick on after straightening it. Easier than making the special end to fit the ZF on your old stick.
That is a good link for cummins numbers. I like the cummins torque graphs. 240 lb/ft of torque at 700 RPM. That's more than peak small block and 2000 RPM lower.
That is a good link for cummins numbers. I like the cummins torque graphs. 240 lb/ft of torque at 700 RPM. That's more than peak small block and 2000 RPM lower.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek
I'd pull the head while it's on the floor and use four of the bolts to hold the shortblock on the stand. The bolts are M12X1.75 grade 12.9 just measure the length of the arms on your stand plus 20MM for the length.
With the head on it on the stand it's impossible to rotate the engine without help unless you have a gearbox on your stand. With the head off you can turn the engine over by yourself.
With the head on it on the stand it's impossible to rotate the engine without help unless you have a gearbox on your stand. With the head off you can turn the engine over by yourself.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1341
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Utah, Springville
- Contact:
- averagef250
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 4387
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:58 am
- Location: Oregon, Beavercreek